Sue Thomas

You lazy, so and so!!!!!! lol, only joking. Carole spoils us with all her wonderful scripts. 🙂 You know, once you have created one adjustment layer, you'll be able to do more, with ease. It really isn't a complicated process, slow or tedious. Yet the effect, like masks will produce a delightful page. Which will allow you to be creative, like I did some out of bounds and more in the leaf layout.

Providing you save the file with as a PSP, the adjustment layers will reman in tact, and you can slip another photo, of the same size, although you could size up or down, depending on the image, above the original photo. There will be several layers, but you can hide what you don't want to reuse. So yes, you can. They work like masks, you will be able to adjust those layers to suit the new image.

Now I think I know what you are trying to achieve. For this effect may I suggest you use the adjustment layers. I think you will achieve a much better result, not that I'm saying what you have done isn't lovely, it is. Although you have created 3 distinct frames, you still do that using the adjustment layers. In my example, which I did back in 2018, I have done many different ones since, including oval ones, within a rectangle image, which has distinct frames, like yours. Using the selection tool, and the adjustment layer brightness and contrast. Of course you can still lower the opacity whilst the frame is still selected with the selection tool, within the adjustment layer. The adjustment layers are like masks, you can go back at a later time to change it, when saved as a PSP. There are masterclasses on using the adjustment layers. 'Adjust what' is one. I hope this helps you.

I put this page in November by mistake. I like the gold. I'm going to use this in some of next year's festive cards, as the greeting/verse on the inside page. It ill make for a novel layout. I will also be able change some of the wording, depending who the recipient of the card is going to be.

I'm sorry, but I'm at a loss. The only other thing I can think of is creating and using a frame or frames in a mask, where the opacity of those frames will be sporadic throughout the mask. Or using a vector shape to create a frame, using from vector shape, go to the photo layer promote to a new layer, and change the brightness and contrast of that layer. You now have me baffled!

I saw something similar online, which caught my eye. I decided to create my own. I'll make it more festive with colour, holly etc. Wordart using only fonts.

Carole has transparent frames script. I replicated one of them, it's below. The only other thing I can think of is using the adjustment layers.

I dug out one of my very old photos from home. It wasn't that long ago that we were discussing the origins of Christmas and it's relation to the Winter Solstice during pagan times, in the campus. I mentioned that my children and I would go out gathering greenery for decorations, and branches for a tree. I have created a Yuletide page. I still make paper chains. I used Carole's label script for the journaling, the pine cones come with PSP. The other elements I have acquired over the years, which I use over and over in other pages, particularly the ivy, which you may recognise.

Ann, I like the background. Did you consider using guides, or better still objects, distribute, space evenly horizontal and vertical, to align the months.

Mine is the Windows Snip and sketch, which is free.

To take a screen shot using PSP, go to File, Screenshot, setup, select the setting you want (smart capture) start. As I said, I prefer to use the keys on my keyboard.

I had a print screen key on my old keyboard. My newer one doesn't. I could take a screen shot through PSP, but I prefer to use hold down the shift key, windows logo key and the letter S. I then create a border around the area I want to take a screen shot of, and it saves it in documents. The only thing it doesn't include in a screen shot is the cursor pointer.

Wonderful, do you think I could use it to decorate my tree with. 😀

I am used to A4, then coming to North America, I was under the impression that US letter was it's equivalent. Not so. Not only they changed the paper size name, they also changed the size itself. Subtle as it may be. The American pint is different to the Imperial pint, to me a pint is a pint. Which makes the American fluid ounce 4% more than the imperial. Same goes for measuring cups. Australia is the same as the European. It can make baking a maths lesson sometime, when you are trying to convert an America recipe to imperial. when you have imperial measuring jugs and scales. That is why I mentioned in a previous comment, when using an outside source for printing anything, the first thing to do is to choose the layout size from the printers option list. No matter how little the size difference may be, it can be a real hassle editing it to fit.

Your printer doesn't print to the edges, mine doesn't, I use a guillotine to trim the edges. You can get printers that do. When you use an outside source for printing, they too trim the edges.

For the button frame I used the blue button picture tubes, which comes with PSP. The colours were to pastel for my liking, so I changed them.

Nothing very original. I raided some of Carole's freebie buttons from the Creation Cassel blog. I did use the pen tool to extend the swash, in order to accommodate the button, threaded through.

This is only a thought, as it seems to me that you want to focus on actual digital scrapbooking, but you can't do it without reference to a graphics program, in this case PSP. To achieve the realistic digital scrapbook page layout. What about splitting the book into 2 parts. The first half of the book or how many pages it will take would be designated to creating digital scrapbook pages. The second half or the last quarter of the book could focus on tool references within PSP. In other words a Bibliography. I know that section is usually reserved for book references on a particular subject, related to the book being read. Your Bibliography would refer the reader to pages, in the campus. Along with brief instruction on how to create shadows, or a title for instance. This way your book will attract the conventical scrap booker, who can pick up ideas and tips, while the digital scrapbooker or want to be digital scrapbooker will get to learn how to use PSP. Become familiar with Corel. For instance, say your first chapter is about Titles. Then in your Bibliography, under Chapter 1. Titles, you can list bog posts, masterclasses, and lab titles for the reader to check out. I hope you know where I'm coming from with this.

Ann, it's me again. Please forgive me, as I'm not purposely picking holes in your work. In the month of July, and the word July and June. The letter J has what appears to be a diacritical mark above it. (acute accent). Perhaps that is how the font is meant to be, unless you chose the wrong fancy J. Either way, and I'm not you, I would remove that mark, as the font itself is ideal for the theme of your calendar.

I agree, as the calendars that we have all created on here, aren't the general run of the mill calendar.

I print everything off myself. Using good quality paper, it's worth paying the extra. I use HP Photo premium (matt) paper for the calendars, as I'm able to print on both sides. Avery products for cards etc. For the calendars I round the corners, or other punches to subtly remove the sharp edges. Everything , is always well received. Several years ago I looked into buying the wire binding kit, but for the price it wasn't worth the expense. I punch two holes, and use ribbons to use to hang the calendars. I will also punch holes in cards, to thread ribbon, of course it will depend on the card. Choosing ribbon colours to match the calendars, or whether it's for a man or woman. Once again, it's the little details that count, which get noticed the most, and remarked upon. Bit like an error will stand out like a sore thumb. I agree, although it's nice to use your own photos in the calendars to personalise a calendar using the online printing services, which are basically premade, are excessively expensive. I certainly couldn't warrant using them, for the number of calendars, and cards I produce and print. Also, for me it would take away some of the personalising of the item. It's all my work, from start to finish.

Ann, I doubt that you will find an online printing company, such as VistaPrint to print and bind your calendar in the way you want. You will have to make many changes, such as resizing, without distortion for instance, which will fit the large number of templates they offer. These calendars come with premade months, and backgrounds. I often have my work printed onto canvas, using a British online printing service, for gifts. I always select the size I want to use first, from the printer selection, as invariably, if I don't I will have to make changes in order for it to fit one of their canvas sizes.

I don't have the script. I was under the impression that each word was on it's own layer in order for you to edit. If so, I would certainly remove the layers that are overlapping to much, and layers that are taking up to much of the photo. I like the effect to showcase photos, which is why I have created my own.

Looking at your screen shot, you need to change from fill to stroke in your material palette. Double click on the NEW PATH layer, it will open a dialog box. Ensure you have the stroke selected, and not the fill. Click on the line style arrow to select the line style you want. There you can change many settings. Disregard the mitre limit.

Julie, I feel quite humbled by your generous complimentary words. I sincerely, appreciate and thank you, and others that comment on my work as you do. I am a stickler for detail, even the slightest misalignment shouts out to me, to rectify it. Of course I'm far from perfect, and will often miss things. I don't scrutinize other peoples' work, but some small details will jump out at me, that is when I try to tactfully and without malice make helpful suggestions. I like to think that others would reciprocate.