Cassel

Well, three years ago, I fell on the stairs. Over time, they became "off-level". One morning, it was raining slightly, and I was holding my grandson's hand (he was just 12 months old), and my shoe slipped on the uneven step. I had a bad fall. My grandson did too, but he only fell ON the step. I had a nasty bruise for weeks. We added a 2x4 where I could at least hold something and the stairs were leveled within days. My husband also bought that anti-slip paint and painted all the steps with it (it is like paint with sand in it).

Are you a DIY fan? What kind of things do you do as DIY? Do you recycle clothes or furniture? Do you fix things around your place on your own? Show us some pictures if you have some.

Final day of individual feedback. @Carolyn Rye Good cast shadow. And yes, with practice, it will become easier. @EukaGreat result. In the future, when you want to apply these techniques, even if they are not perfect to start, at least, it will make you "think" about the effects. @MicheleThat is a very clever way to address the issue of the light on the head of the pin. See how knowing the program led you to a creative solution! And 14 out of 15 is not bad at all! @Sheila Hogg Adding text to the paper just gives it more realism! And the shadow is good too. And yay on the quiz! @Daniel Hess 13 out of 15 is still over 85% so that is good. If you remember 85% of the whole workshop, I would say you learned quite a bit, don't you think? @Anja Pelzer Sorry about the translation for the quiz. As good as translators can be, with technical terms, it can sometimes be off. @MoniqueN. Make sure you take notes because the videos will only be available until the end of the week (except for DIAMOND members) @Rene Marker I am glad to hear that you learned something from this workshop. Since you are a seasoned scrapbooker, I am sure some of the tips were already familiar. Good on your mark. 🏆 @Gerry Landreth Although I didn't expect participants to use a cast shadow in a photo composition, the same approach would work and the shadows would be similarly "blurred". That is a good exercise. @Mary Solaas You can take all the time you want to "think" about those shadows. Post your projects when you want. And this time, I admit that I made the quiz a bit more "challenging". The goal was not to stump you, but just to make you think. Sorry for the #15 that might have been less "obvious" but as long as it makes you think about the direction, blur, size, opacity, and shape of the shadows, I would say that this workshop was a success. I know some lessons have been challenging, and I hope it won't scare you from using different shadows. Come back to your exercise files (you keep a layered version, right?) and of course, I will always be there to answer your questions if you have some.

Good observation. In the blog post, it was done before I experimented further. I agree that it should be edited in the blog post 🙂

@Jeni Simpson You did very well with those curly ribbons! @Carolyn RyeGreat work. Hopefully, next time you try it (if you do), it will take you less time. @Anja PelzerThe cast shadows are good for both pins. @EukaAlthough you might not use clusters often, remember that occasionally, you could simply have two elements overlapping each other and it will make you think of this shadow trick. @Michele You know, having an easier time drawing downward makes sense. In caligraphy, it is always downward. When you draw with a pencil, it is also easier downward mainly based on the angle of the pencil. There is actually science behind that! @Ann SeeberI think the shadows for your pins need to have a "less blurred" section close to the contact point. @Daniel Hess Your cast shadows look good. On the blue thumbtack, it seems like the light is a little lower on the left side. If you want to determine the light source, draw an imaginary line from the tip of the shadow to the matching tip on the element. That should give you the position of the light source. @Rene MarkerVarious elements COULD be sticking out, whether they are pins, maybe little wooden signs, thumbtacks, and in some situations, maybe a twig could be very lifted from the page. It is not that common, but when you encounter one, you will know how the shadow will be different that the "flat" shadow. @Susan Ewart It is fun to see you practice with 3 different sizes. In fact, the smaller one COULD be meant to be leaning toward us (away from the paper) and if so, the shadow could have been angled toward the bottom. In that case, only the shadow would tell us that the pin is angled. @Donna SilliaYou managed those shadow quite well. You should be proud! @Corrie KinkelThat is a great observation. I guess I included the "wrong" pins in the practice file because in the video, it was in the correct direction. And yes, finding out how the element is lit can make the whole shadowing more consistent. I think that the balloon you used has a perfect shadow, and it could look good on a birthday card! @Linda J WalkerIf you see a pattern in the Eraser, check if there is a texture in the background swatch. That is a well hidden "feature". Remember that all those tricks and techniques are meant to inform you and let you observe and analyze shadows (and elements to shadow) in a critical way. It might mean that you will rotate an element that has a shading that does not match the other elements. It might mean that you will take the opportunity to warp shadows to give more dynamism or use multiple shadows if it overlaps more than one element (especially thicker ones). Don't worry, I won't be "correcting" every single shadow you will apply in your projects and I will probably take shortcuts myself too! Keep it up. I will give feedback tomorrow too, to those who will post their projects during the day.

@Linda J WalkerYour shadows on the curly ribbons are very good! And I would say that the cluster is also a success. @Anja PelzerWhen you have trouble with curly ribbons, you can choose some that are not too curly and you will do just great. But it is a matter of practice. For your extra practice, the "added" effect looks good. The only thing seems that in some places, where the ribbon is flat or touching the paper, the offset is too much. But the curly parts look good. The shadows on the clusters look great. @Susan Ewart I think your shadows on the curly ribbons are fairly good, even if not to your taste. And yes, when working on those multiple layers in a cluster, you have to avoid distractions. It is not hard to do, but easy to lose your "train of thought" so to speak. I also see a difference in the shadows for your cluster. It looks great. @Carolyn Rye Yes, I also find that using a mouse is harder. Making a smooth line or curve is difficult. @Jen Brown The shadows on the set of flowers are ok. I think that the flowers on the right could probably have more offset and more blur too. @Sheila HoggYou managed to make very good shadows on those curly ribbons! And for the cluster, you also did very well. @Rene MarkerYou are right. In most cases, those details are not going to be very obvious. It will likely show more if the elements are thicker (like a shadow over a button). I am sure that in most clusters, scrappers will use "regular" shadows and it will be ok. Now, knowing that in reality, it MIGHT be important, one just has to consider how much of an importance it has and if it is, then we'd know what to do. And thanks for the tip on odd number of elements. You are also correct in mentioning the multiple lightings in anything that surrounds us: a window, a ceiling light, and light bouncing off a white wall. The only thing to remember is consistency: if you happen to have double shadows on one element, it would have to apply to all; if the shadows are mostly in one direction, it should apply to all. Different light sources won't shine only on some elements. I think that is where some scrappers can make a mistake: trying to simulate multiple light sources, they end up with shadows that are random. @Daniel HessI would say that your shadows on the cluster are a bit too "strong", however, it makes the difference very obvious when the shadows overlap an edge so it shows well that difference between the surfaces. @Gerry Landreth Those additional clusters you shadowed are great! @Corrie KinkelShadowing existing clusters can be very tricky because you have to use settings consistent with the "inside shadows" that the designer already put. Occasionally, it does not fit your current project. I know that a lot of the tutorials might seem "picky" and the result might not look obvious, but the important thing is that now, you know how to do it, and hopefully, it will also give you something to THINK about and you might observe real shadows around you too. It will be up to you to decide when and where to apply those techniques. Tomorrow, we will look at cast shadows, which is something different again! That will be the last lesson. Then, you can start breathing again!

Learning scrapbooking is often done with practice, looking around for inspiration, and trying to recreate projects we admire. Sometimes, we can be inspired by finished projects, but sometimes, we also have to use our imagination to interpret something. This challenge will allow you to envision something from a “boring” base, and you will have to imagine the end result differently. The sketch is only a written idea, and you can fly with it, modify it, and customize it to fit your vision, your photos, and your supplies. And if you want more information on using sketches, check out this article. Post your project in the gallery.

@Susan Ewart Your shadows on the flowers are pretty good. Is one shadow purple or is it an optical illusion? @Euka The flower shadows are good. For the lifted corners, be careful that the push is ALWAYS toward the bottom right even if it is a top corner. And yes, using the Warp brush needs a steady hand. I am grateful to have a graphic tablet as it is easier (for me) to control than a mouse. @Jen Brown Great start. All the shadows look like they are correct on Lesson 1. On Lesson 2, I think you might have moved the white square between the wavy element and its shadow. Do you see that? For your Lesson 3, the lifted shadow looks very good! @Michele you are doing great! Yes, more practice will make the process easier over time. @Marie-Claire Those lifted corners look very good. They are perfectly angled! The flowers are well shadowed too. Good job! @Rene Marker I agree that the Edit History is not very intuitive to use. And if you have several elements that were shadowed, you have no way to know which one was which either. Although you might not be happy with the curly ribbons' shadows, I think they are quite good! @Daniel Hess I don't blame you for hating curly ribbons! They are a nightmare. Yet, they are available in many kits and if they are used they NEED those scary shadows. A "regular" shadow would look even worse! The shadows on the top three ribbons are very good. For the fourth one, you might look at "curving" the ends of the hand-drawn shadows to meet the other pieces. But for the assignment, it is quite a good start. @fiona cookThat is nice to see the ribbons "in action". For the green ribbon, just like I mentioned above to Daniel, see if you could "curve" the ends of your hand-drawn sections to meet the other "flat" pieces. @Donna Sillia Preset shapes for those shadows would be impossible to use as you would never have the same size, thickness, height, or angle for each "loop". For the red ribbon, the shadow is pretty good, although it seems a little thick. For the green one, if you added more blur, it would look even better. @Corrie KinkelEven with a not-so-steady hand, your result is quite good! And no, a script would not be feasible as each loop would need to be custom, and remember: a script cannot SEE the image so it can't tell whether that loop is up or down. @Gerry LandrethI have to say that those shadows are quite good! I do find it easier with a tablet than with a mouse, but I am also more comfortable with it for everything. I know that curly ribbons are very hard to shadow correctly, but from what I see, you are all doing a good job. One important lesson I hope you will remember is that curly ribbons CANNOT have a regular flat shadow. That is the obvious mistake. So, if you choose to just not use those ribbons, that is fine too, but you also know what to do if you really like one of those ribbons and you want to use it. Of course, it is a matter of practice and only a handful of exercises might not be enough for you to feel comfortable yet, but it will come. Tomorrow, we will look at clusters. Don't be scared. We will go through the process one shadow at a time.

@Cristina I am glad my feedback is well received and useful. @Michele The "normal" shadow on the light green paper looks like it is missing. Is it the case or is it just due to the resizing (which is possible)? For the lifted shadow, try to just make it smaller. I find that the larger it is, the harder it is to make it look right. @Sheila HoggIs it possible that the mode for the Warp Brush was not on the Push? Maybe a different mode was set? Can you check that? Using the Pick tool is a good alternative in many situations. Good work. On your flowers, it LOOKS like the shadows are a little wide on the top right and bottom right ones. The others look great. @Daniel Hess Those flowers are looking good. Do those shadows start to make sense? For the bonus flowers, the offset looks appropriate for those but the opacity seems high and the blur a little low. @Rene MarkerYou are bringing up a good question about where to make the selection. The answer is simple: you make the selection wherever you want based on where you plan on starting the curl of the corner. You want the shadow to gradually go from "normal", where the paper/photo is flat to gradually get blurred where it is lifted. So if you want a large area to be lifted, your selection will be larger than if you want a slight, subtle lift. Does that make sense? For the clusters, that will be on lesson 6. Stay tuned! (but yours looks good) Warping the shadow on flowers is not always necessary. In fact, I usually don't do it, but it is an option that could add a touch of realism in some situation, with some flowers (not all). @Donna SilliaFor your flowers, be careful to NOT bring shadows upward. It looks like that on middle right flower. Do you see what I mean? the others are all in the correct angle. @Mary Solaas Your lifted shadows look good. I think the main "issue" (and that is probably because I never explained it) is how the photo is pushed. I will need to add a lesson or a tutorial for that. In the meantime, try to not touch the photo with the center of the brush, but keep it OFF the photo. See if it helps to "curl" the photo better. @fiona cook The shadows of those flowers look good. It seems like you are getting the hang of them. There is no SIMPLE way to retrieve the settings you used, however, if it was not too long ago, you can check in the History palette (F3), right-click on the Drop Shadow you did, copy to clipboard, and then paste it on another document (Notepad, Word, etc.). You might recognize the settings. Another way would be to check the Image Information. The settings might be saved there and you could see them. @Corrie KinkelI am glad that these lessons are making you "think" more about the shadows. That is the goal since it will allow you to adjust each shadow based on what is logical for any particular element. @Julie MagerkaFor your lifted corners, have a second look at the angle. Draw an imaginary line between the shadow corner and the photo corner. Does that get directed toward the light source on the top left? The other thing is that you can lower the opacity a lot on those shadows. Remember that the further the element is, the lower the opacity. On the other hand, your flowers look great. @Jeni Simpson Despite all that work, you managed to pull out fairly good shadows for those lifted corners. For the next ones, try to add even more feathering to make a more gradual transition between the "normal" shadow and the "lifted" one. The flowers are pretty good too. @Anja PelzerYour flowers are well shadowed. If you have a flower (or an element) that is transparent, you would likely need to lower the opacity since it would let the light through. But you have a good solution. @Gerry LandrethVisualizing the shadows that should be associated with each element is a great start. Of course, applying it is another thing, but at least, it will allow you to decide if it matches your vision or not, so you can always tweak it as needed. @Linda J WalkerThose flowers are quite good with their shadows. Good work. @Carolyn RyeYou did a great job on those flowers! Get ready for another challenge tomorrow! You will have to use that Warp Brush some more!!

It is great to see everyone working so hard on today's technique. @Sue Thomas You are right: one great way to learn about shadows is to look at them and analyze what they are. Observation is key in replicating any effect. I love how you added the lifted effect on the "sticker". That is another element that can easily be "lifted" on scrap pages. You are also correct about the idea to lighten the lifted corner a little (although it would not apply to all four corners). Unfortunately, that is not a detail that will be addressed. Maybe it will come in a second workshop on shadows! 🙂 @MoniqueN. The scribbles are both chalk, so it would not need a shadow. You see how it looks really natural on the bottom one, while the top one is unrealistic. Your question about the size of the shadow base on the geographical location is an interesting one. We know that the shadows are directly dependent on the light source so if the sun is low on the horizon, the shadows will be much longer. If the sun is high in the sky, it will be much shorter. If you live close to the Equator, the sun will be very high at noon, while it will be much lower if you are on the north pole. However, that only applies to shadows created by the sun. If you are indoors it won't make any difference. And if you are talking about shadows on a project, that won't have any visible effect. But here is a little technical article where an old experiment that shows some difference. @Rene MarkerYou are correct in using the reverse shadow only in some instances. I think that they are not essential every time, especially if the papers already have textures and obvious differences with the surrounding papers. The lifted shadows on the bottom photo look the most realistic. The top photo MIGHT have used more feathering before the blur. I think the same thing applies to the ribbon. It is a good idea to try on a ribbon as that is an element that can easily be "lifted" in a project. @Ann SeeberI think that for your lifted shadow, you started with too much of an offset. Then, I think you pushed the photo corner toward the top right instead of the top left (inward). Is that possible? @fiona cookThose shadows look good. I think the only issue is with the Warp brush. One trick you can try is to avoid putting the very center of the brush right on the tip of the corner. Try to keep that center away from the corner. I think it will push the corner a bit better (maybe there should be lessons about the Warp Brush in the future too!). Your shadows on the translucent ribbons are great. @Corrie Kinkel You are correct: once you have a starting point for the shadow, it is up to you to adjust it based on various conditions. And with practice, you might start to have your own prefered settings (and presets). Yes, the feathering is one way to go from the "regular" shadow on the flat section to the "lifted" shadow on the lifted section. @Cristina Great work on those lifted corners. I think the only slight issue is the corner of the photo. It looks like they are not "smoothly" curled up. I think that is just a Warp Brush issue, and that might need some additional lessons. @Donna SilliaThe shadow on the top photo is quite good, but if you look at the one on the bottom photo, your shadow was stretched in the wrong direction: it should have gone toward the bottom and you sent it to the top. If you want to try it again, you might see the obvious difference. I am surprised that the Flip it up script would send the shadow toward the top left??? @Susan EwartI think you did pretty well with those lifted shadows. Keep practicing so they become more "automatic". @Daniel HessThe shadows for the thumbtacks will be addressed in Lesson 7 so I won't comment on them. For the photo on the top, It looks like it is missing the shadow for the bottom left corner. For the other corners (and the other photo), they look quite good. @Anja Pelzer Your shadows look good, however, the one on the bottom left of the bottom photo seems to be misaligned. If you draw a line between the corner of the photo and the corner of the shadow, it would indicate a light source on the top, slightly to the right even. Do you see that? @Carolyn RyeYou did very well for those being your first tries! I think I would have pushed the top shadow from the bottom photo a little more toward the bottom. It MIGHT have been in the correct direction, but the blur just made it less clear. @Gerry LandrethThose are pretty good. I wonder if you feathered before adding the blur (maybe you did the same mistake I made!). @Linda J WalkerThe shadow on the top photo seems perfect. On the bottom one, I think you just pushed the shadows inward a tiny bit too much to fix the edges, but otherwise, they would have looked like the one on the top photo. For information about saving presets, you can read this article. Tomorrow, we will look at shadowing flowers. You will be able to use a few techniques learned until now!

Glad to see even more participants today! What a collection of assignments! @Carolyn RyeYes, chalk should not have shadows as it has no thickness. Also, check the shadows for the sequins. It MIGHT be due to the resizing, but it looks like they are wider than they should. Those additional elements on the second assignment look like they do have appropriate shadows. @Susan EwartYou are correct: a large offset will "separate" from a thin element so it would look like it is floating. That is a good observation and it is important because even with the "correct" settings, some elements will need you to tweak them in some situations. @Anja PelzerThe shadow was very small for the sequins so it was likely lost in the resizing. On the second project, are the shadows larger or is it just the fact that you resized to 700 instead of 600 that gives that impression? @Michele Yes, I also noticed that the shadows are different on both photos, and it is the same for several other participants. The first time I saw it, I thought someone added a shadow twice, accidentally, but now, everyone has the same "mistake" so it is definitely due to the resizing. @Euka It is ok to follow the tutorial to the letter. The important part is for you to understand why I use the settings I used so that next time, you can apply something similar. @Chris Schults Shadows used in the Drop Shadow should always be black. The only time you will need to find the color from an element to add it as a Drop Shadow is if the light goes through colored glass. A blue button does not have a blue shadow (unless it is made of translucent glass). Look at the shadow from your hand onto a piece of paper. Is the shadow the same color as your skin? The appearance of a colored shadow is the combination of the black shadow at a lower opacity, showing the background color through. By the way, 296kb is larger than the 0.290MB. Very little, but it is still larger. @Daniel HessI also think that as faint as a reverse shadow can be, it still makes a difference. Most people don't even notice it! @Cristinathat reverse shadow turns a "flat" element into a real 3D one! @Rene MarkerThat makes for a very colorful assignment. Did you use reverse shadows before? @Jnet AllardYour shadows look good, although I suspect the "larger" shadow on the orange paper is only due to the resizing, right? @Bonnie BallentineYou are correct: a few points more or less would not make a significant difference so it is ok if one changes them a little for their project. The idea is mostly to be "logical" in our tweaks. @Ann SeeberThat is a fun collage. @Marie-ClaireIt is ok to follow the exact same settings. Do they make sense to you? @Mary SolaasHow do you feel about all those shadow settings? @Julie MagerkaYou are correct. The doodles didn't need a shadow. Isn't that logical? @Corrie Kinkel Those wavy lines COULD be replaced by actual ricrac ribbons. But you can replace any shape by any element. The important part is to understand how they need shadowing, and especially the paper elements when it comes to the reverse shadows. @Donna SilliaThat is a lot of good practice for you. @Susan EwartWe don't have to be this picky, in general. Right now, we are so focused on those shadows that we probably "see" them more than normally in an overall project. @Gerry LandrethI suspect that during this workshop, we will often "overthink". Over time, shadows should become automatic. In the end, there is simple logic behind the settings. That is all that counts. @fiona cookTranslucent elements are challenging to shadow. Here is a little trick: you can use similar settings, but divide the Opacity by about half. Translucent elements are only partially opaque AND light shines through it, which makes the shadow more faint. @Sheila HoggAdding textures makes your assignment more interesting. Good work. @Jeni SimpsonGood work. Do those shadows make sense so far? @Linda J WalkerI don't see that extra layer on your image. What do you think of the reverse shadow? @Sue ThomasYou are correct in your approach. The settings I give are only starting points, and assume a certain thickness of paper (scrapbook paper is usually thicker than writing paper) and if you adjust the settings based on the colors, it is the perfect tweak. Keep it up. Keep it up. Tomorrow, we will play with shadows and distort them. Get ready!

Are you an avid camper? Or just an occasional one? Do you camp with a tent? an RV? or a smaller trailer? What kind of activity do you enjoy while camping? Share your stories and photos if you have some!

As far as I know, there is no 2024. I also remember the beta team suggesting NOT to integrate AI too much for a few reasons, namely that not everyone wants it, but also it would bloat the program while other tools are available and could be used in conjunction with PSP. Otherwise, I have no more information.

Let's give it a try. Make sure to compress the image enough. Even 500KB can add up when we have dozens of participants and several lessons each 🙂

You mean to be able to "draw" raffia with your cursor? Unfortunately, I have not found a way to do that because of the texture that is involved.

I am glad to see your projects in the forum. Did you know there are more than 100 registrants? I hope to see many more assignments in this thread. And remember that if you are posting, you will get individual feedback from me. It is also a great opportunity to ask questions if you are unsure of something. Welcome to all the newcomers to the Campus, including @Ian Fenton @Ann Seeber Thanks for pointing out the "missing" string. @Ian Fenton Yes, the very first assignment WAS supposed to be "that easy". If you look at your assignment, do you see how the photo looks like it is either floating above the base OR is made of a thick block of something casting a shadow? In upcoming lessons, you will see that large offsets are typically reserved for lifted or thick elements. For the scribbles, it is an element that has no thickness, so it should not have a shadow at all. @Cristina You are correct that typically, one would not add a photo on top of a ribbon! It is a good thing it is ONLY a practice and not a real page! The thin shadows on the sequins are correct as, if you zoom in, you will see it matches the existing shadow where the sequins overlap each other. @Rene Marker Yes, over time, you get comfortable with some specific settings, but even then, you might tweak them for a particular project, based on the background color and such. @Daniel Hess That is a good idea to move things around. For a practice project, it gives you a chance to see the shadows in their entirety (or most of it). For the chalk scribbles, remember that it has no thickness (just like ink and paint) so it should not have any actual shadow. @fiona cook You mentioned that you considered the sequins as thicker than other elements. Look closely at them: they already have SOME shadow where they overlap. In that case, you have to try to replicate that same shadow for consistency. @Linda J Walker You don't need to go back to get the exact values you used. Overall, we can look at shadows and see if they make sense or not. That is the part that needs practice. The only element that might need more tweaking is the shadow of the sequins. Look closely at the shadows already on the overlapped sequins. What value would replicate that? @Sheila HoggThe practice will make your eyes more skilled to evaluate when it is "correct". Did you add a shadow to the sequins? @Corrie KinkelYou are correct: the sequins already have some shadows but when you add one, it will only apply outside of it all. That makes it challenging to shadow when there is already some "internal" shadows. @Anja PelzerThank you for suggesting a new folder in the gallery. I have added one now. The Push tool will be shown later. I guess you already learned it in previous lessons/courses! Did you add a shadow to the sequins? @Donna Sillia I am not sure the shadow on the chalk works. If you draw on paper, would you see a shadow? @Anita Wyatt Glad to see you will give this a try. Do what you can but don't force your eyes! @Harmony Birch Did you happen to add more than one shadow on one photo? It looks like the two photos have different shadows. They should be consistent. For the string, how did you move the shadow? @Jeni Simpson Sometimes, resizing might affect how a project shows. It is a good idea to offer a cropped version. On the resized version, I would have asked if you had the same settings for both photo, but on the cropped version, I see that it is. And your idea of renaming the layer with the settings is great, at least for this workshop! @Gerry LandrethOther than the chalk doodles that should not have an actual shadow, the other ones look quite good. @Carolyn Rye I do hope that this workshop will help you get more comfortable with shadows. On your assignment, the chalk drawing should not have shadows: it is completely flat on the paper (just like ink would be). If some of you have not posted, you are allowed to "cheat" by reading my feedback before posting your assignment 🙂 For those I already commented on, you don't have to repost any "correction" if you choose to try again. See you tomorrow!

Exactly. The Creative Scrap started with the beginning of the Campus, in 2011, but TheLab format only started in 2015. I still wanted all the tutorials listed in one place.

Yes, all the tutorials in The Lab SHOULD be listed also in the Creative Scrap. Otherwise, there would be no way to know where to look when you want to create a particular element/effect.

I have modified the file to include the string. Good catch again. If you want to re-download it, you can, but you don't have to.

I am sorry for the inconvenience. There was a little issue and I have fixed. Can you try again?

This challenge has had great success in the past so we can continue to have it on a regular basis, don’t you think? Just like those “some assembly required” kits that you can buy for a shelf, a chair, or a picnic table, I am including a 3600×3600 pixels canvas with some shapes. You HAVE to use the shapes in the size and proportions they are. You can move them, rotate them, flip them, and rearrange the layering if you want but you cannot resize them. You need to use ALL the pieces but you can add more if you want. So it is like all the pieces to build a DIY shelf: you cannot change the size of the pieces but you can use them creatively. Obviously, you will want to recolor them or replace them with papers, photos, etc. We just need to be able to recognize the initial shapes. Here is a preview of the shapes involved. The hearts will need to stay hearts. You will have lots of strips of papers OR ribbons. The leaves should stay as is (you can only rotate and color them). Remember that you CANNOT replace them. They are NOT placeholders. Click here to download the layered template. Post your projects in the gallery.

Even if we don't see the actual texture, we can see there is one! Good work.

Interesting model of door. Yours is more see-through than ours, which I think is scarier for her!

Sometimes, we have more answers in the Campus than Corel can offer! 😉

Can you download the 2022 again on this link? I don't think there is an "end date" on that page.